A six-day cycling adventure through the Netherlands and Belgium
What started as a simple idea - Zoe and I, some bikes, and a shared love of good coffee and adventure - turned into an unforgettable week of cycling across the Netherlands and Belgium. Over six days, we covered 400 miles, chased tailwinds (and battled a few headwinds), and soaked up everything from cobbled climbs to canal paths.
This wasn’t a race; it was an adventure full of laughter, wrong turns, great coffee, better beer, and the occasional rainstorm that tested our resolve. From ferry decks and flatlands to Bruges’ cobbles and Belgium’s famous frites, here’s how the Beer and Frites Tour rolled out.
Day 1 - Tailwinds, Detours, and Dutch Delights
After a surprisingly good night’s sleep aboard the North Sea ferries, we were eager to hit the road, or rather, the bike lanes. We rolled straight off the ferry and into a perfect tailwind, cruising effortlessly through the flat Dutch countryside. It felt like the day couldn’t have started better.
Not long into our ride, we came across a closed bridge, one that wasn’t exactly optional for our route. The detour turned into an unplanned battle against a fierce headwind that seemed determined to test our spirits (and leg muscles). But eventually, fortune smiled again: we found a small ferry that carried us across the water, saving us miles of backtracking and offering some truly picturesque views of waterside towns. Most of our journey wound along peaceful bike paths, far from any traffic, just the hum of our wheels and the Dutch countryside for company.
The Quest for Coffee and a Warm Welcome in Breda
By the time we reached Breda, we’d clocked 55 miles without a single coffee stop. Not for lack of trying, mind you; there just didn’t seem to be any inviting spots along the way. When we finally stumbled upon Kamu Café, it felt like discovering an oasis. Not only did they serve fantastic coffee, but the café also doubled as a bike workshop.
Revived and refuelled, we took a little time to explore Breda itself. The town has that classic Dutch charm: narrow streets lined with gabled buildings, lively squares, and a laid-back energy that invites you to slow down and take it all in. We enjoyed a well-earned beer in the square as the evening light softened over the rooftops.
For the night, we checked into a Campanile Hotel. It wasn’t exactly five-star luxury, but after a day of headwinds, detours, and 55 miles in the saddle, it felt perfectly fine. A comfortable bed, a hot shower, and a place to recharge.
Day 2 - Canals, Rain, and a Push to Mechelen
The rain returned with a vengeance, right when we hit the most exposed stretch of the ride, a long, open bike path running alongside the canals. The wind howled, the rain came down in sheets, and we found ourselves pedalling through what felt like a wind tunnel. But there was something oddly satisfying about it too: that feeling of pushing through together, with the canals stretching endlessly beside us.
Eventually, soaked and windblown, we rolled into Mechelen, a beautiful town that immediately lifted our spirits despite our dripping gear. The historic streets and old buildings were stunning, even through fogged-up glasses.
Finding Refuge at Beer Central
Salvation came in the form of a warm, glowing bar called Beer Central. Inside, the chill of the day melted away. The place boasted 30 Belgian beers on draft, each one more tempting than the last. After hours of battling wind and rain, sitting there with a cold Belgian ale in hand felt absolutely perfect.
We checked into the NH Hotel for the night - modern, comfortable, and right in the heart of Mechelen. After the day we’d had, it felt like pure luxury.
Belgian Fries and the Joy of Local Flavours
Since we were in Belgium, it seemed only right to indulge in the local cuisine. That meant one thing: frites. I went all in and tried them with Hannibal sauce, the bomb!
As we wrapped up the evening, reflecting on the day over good food and beer, we agreed: despite the wind, the rain, and the miles, it had been an incredibly rewarding day. Sometimes, it’s the rough-weather rides that make the best memories.
Day 3 - Cobbles, Canals, and Belgian Hills: From Brussels to Oudenaarde
Day Three began with a new kind of energy, that mix of anticipation and tired legs that only a cycling trip can bring. We left the towpath behind and headed into Brussels, navigating through the city’s industrial edges before climbing our way into the heart of it all. The final push brought us up into the Grand Place, and it was absolutely worth the effort.
The cobblestones, the grand façades, the buzz of the city. The drinks, however, reminded us we were in the capital; let’s just say they were priced accordingly. Still, we couldn’t complain; sipping something cold amid that incredible setting made the detour more than worthwhile.
Proper Belgian Cycling
From Brussels onward, we finally hit what I dubbed “proper Belgian cycling.” Gone were the long, flat stretches, and in came rolling hills, pavé, gravel, dirt tracks, and, of course, another persistent headwind that seemed determined to stick with us all week. Each surface brought its own kind of challenge, but also its charm, the sort of riding that keeps things interesting and keeps you on your toes.
Road Closures and Unexpected Detours
The day wasn’t without its surprises. We came across numerous road closures, each one sending us on a slightly more “creative” route than the last. Some detours led us down quiet farm roads, others through tiny villages we’d never have found otherwise. It became a running joke. No matter how direct the map looked, there was always an adventure waiting around the next closure sign.
Despite the wind and the wandering, the journey south toward Oudenaarde felt special. The roads began to look familiar, the kind of déjà vu that comes from returning to a place you truly love.
Evenings, Beers, and the “Supermarket Sweep”
We rolled into Oudenaarde tired but content and checked into the Leopold Hotel, which turned out to be just what we needed: comfortable, welcoming, and close to everything. After a quick freshen-up, we launched into what we called a “Supermarket Sweep” - a mad dash to stock up on post-ride essentials (snacks, drinks, and chocolate).
Oudenaarde never disappoints. Its mix of scenic beauty, cycling history, and relaxed charm makes it one of those places that always feels like coming home.
Day 4 - From Oudenaarde to Bruges: Tailwinds and Flemish Charm
After a few days of headwinds and rain, Day Four felt like a gift. We finally caught a hint of a tailwind, and after battling gusts for days, it was like someone had switched the world back to easy mode. Spirits were high as we rolled out of beautiful Oudenaarde, legs a little tired but ready for another great day on the road.
Leaving town, we followed some of the iconic routes of the Tour of Flanders, roads steeped in cycling legend. There’s something special about riding over the same tarmac and cobbles that have tested the world’s best riders; you can almost feel the history in the cobbles beneath your wheels.
From there, we skirted around the outskirts of Ghent. It got a little busier for a while, the kind of traffic that keeps you alert, but soon we were back on peaceful, leafy bike paths that wound their way toward our destination: Bruges.
And what a destination it is. Bruges is simply stunning! A storybook city of canals, cobbled lanes, and medieval charm at every turn. If you’ve never been, put it on your list. Rolling into town after another long ride felt like stepping into a painting.
The day had all the right ingredients: perfect weather (finally), smooth roads, cobbles and a finish line in one of Europe’s most beautiful cities.
Day 5 - From Bruges to Burgh Haamstede: Autumn Breezes and Canal Paths
Day Five dawned with a definite hint of autumn in the air. That crisp, cool feeling that makes you reach for an extra layer before setting off. The morning felt calm and quiet, and to our great relief, we still had the tailwind on our side.
The route was pure cycling joy, tree-lined bike paths, smooth stretches alongside canals, and the kind of scenery that makes you slow down just to take it all in. Every few miles brought us through another charming village, each one with its own church spire, cobbled square, and that distinct Belgian character we’d come to love.
Midway through the day, we reached one of the highlights of the route, a 30-minute ferry ride. There’s something magical about gliding over the water with bikes lined up on deck, watching the world drift by while the legs get a well-earned rest.
The day ended with a 10-kilometre dam crossing, a wide, open stretch that delivered us straight into Burgh Haamstede. After days of cycling through cities, countryside, and coastlines, arriving there felt like a perfect finale.
We rounded off the journey just as any good cycling day should: with a cold beer, an ice cream, and that quiet sense of satisfaction that comes from a ride well done.
Day 6 - Rolling to the Ferry: The Final Stretch
The final day of our journey began quietly, with that bittersweet feeling that always comes at the end of a great trip. Legs a little heavy and bags packed for a final time.
The morning air had that unmistakable autumn crispness again, cool but calm, the kind of weather that’s perfect for cycling. Of course, then it rained!
The route took us through more of that classic Dutch scenery - quiet villages, winding canals, and long, open stretches of bike path. There’s something special about those last few miles. They feel slower somehow, like you’re trying to stretch time before it runs out, reflecting on a great adventure.
Before long, the landscape opened up, and the sight of the P&O Ferry came into view, the same waters we’d crossed to start this adventure. After days of headwinds, cobbles, canals, and countless coffees (and beers), it was time to head home.
We rolled onto the ferry tired, satisfied, and already reminiscing about the week behind us. From the tailwinds to the rain, the cobbled climbs to the peaceful canals, it had been a journey full of laughter, challenge, and unforgettable moments.
Outrageous, though - P&O didn’t even do a quiz on the way back!
David Pritchard - GRVL Ambassador
Instagram - @caffeine_fuelled_cyclist
