Tubeless tyres have become almost standard equipment for serious gravel cyclists. But are tubeless gravel tyres really worth the extra effort, and how do you set them up properly?
If you are new to gravel cycling, the move from traditional tyres and inner tubes to a tubeless setup can seem complicated. There is rim tape, valves, sealant, compressors, tyre plugs and a whole new vocabulary to learn.
The good news is that once you have your tubeless gravel tyres properly installed, the benefits can be significant—particularly if you spend your weekends riding rough tracks, rocky trails and remote gravel roads where a puncture can turn a great ride into a long walk.
We are based in the Clines and ride a lot of mixed terrain, including flint, so punctures can be a regular occurance.
So, are tubeless tyres worth it? For most gravel cyclists, we think the answer is yes.
What is a tubeless tyre?
A tubeless system removes the traditional inner tube and creates an airtight seal between the tyre and the wheel rim.
Instead of a tube holding the air, the tubeless gravel tyre, rim, rim tape and tubeless valve form the airtight system. A liquid sealant is then added inside the tyre to automatically seal many small punctures as they occur.
The result is a system that can be run at lower pressures than a conventional inner-tube setup, giving you more grip, comfort and confidence when riding off-road.
However, there is one very important point to understand:
You cannot simply put a tubeless tyre onto any wheel and assume it will work.
Both the tyre and the rim/wheel need to be designed or specifically approved for tubeless use. The bead of the tyre needs to correctly seat against the rim to create a secure airtight seal.
If you are unsure whether your wheels are tubeless compatible, check with the wheel manufacturer before attempting a conversion. Park Tool’s tubeless compatibility guide is also a useful reference.
If you are unsure, take the wheels to your local bike shop and ask them.
Why use tubeless tyres for gravel cycling?
Gravel riding is particularly well suited to tubeless technology.
Unlike smooth road riding, gravel cycling can involve sharp stones, loose rocks, potholes, roots and rough sections where your tyres can take considerably more punishment.
1. Fewer punctures
The biggest advantage is arguably the reduction in punctures. Actually, this isn't true as punctures still happen, but they self seal, allowing you to continue riding without even knowing you pictured at all.
Tubeless sealant can seal many small holes caused by thorns, flint, glass and sharp stones before you even realise you have punctured.
There is no inner tube to pinch against the rim, so the traditional “snake bite” puncture caused by hitting a pothole or rock at low pressure is also eliminated.
2. Lower tyre pressures
Tubeless gravel tyres can generally be run at lower pressures than comparable tube-type setups, subject to the tyre and rim manufacturer’s recommendations.
Lower pressures increase the contact patch between the tyre and the ground.
For gravel cyclists, this can mean:
· More grip on loose surfaces
· Better traction when climbing
· Improved comfort
· More control on rough descents
· Less vibration through the bike
· A more forgiving ride over rocks and roots
Finding the right pressure is important, though. Too much pressure can make a gravel bike feel harsh and skittish, while too little pressure increases the risk of rim strikes and can potentially cause the tyre to move or “burp” air from the rim.
3. No inner tubes to carry?
Well, not quite!
Although a properly set-up tubeless system can dramatically reduce punctures, experienced gravel cyclists should still carry a spare inner tube.
A large cut or damaged sidewall can be too big for sealant or a tyre plug to repair. At that point, installing an inner tube can be the quickest way of getting home. We recommend carrying a small piece of gorilla tape that you can temporarily seal the tyre split if a tyre plug isn't up to the job.
Think of the inner tube as your emergency backup rather than something you expect to use every ride.
How to set up tubeless gravel tyres
Setting up cycling tubeless for the first time can be messy, but it is relatively straightforward if you have the correct components.
What you will need
You will need:
· Tubeless-ready gravel tyres
· Tubeless-ready wheels/rims
· Tubeless rim tape
· Tubeless valves
· Tubeless sealant
· Valve core remover
· Tyre levers
· Floor pump or tubeless inflator/compressor
· Sealant injector or measuring container
· A cloth
· Soapy water can also be useful for difficult-to-seat beads
. Patience
Before doing anything, check that your tyres and tubeless gravel wheels are compatible.
The rim needs to provide the correct bead seat for the tyre. The rim also needs to be airtight, normally using tubeless-specific rim tape.
Do not attempt to create a tubeless system using incompatible tyres or wheels simply because they physically fit together.
Step 1: Check the rim
Remove the existing tyre and inner tube and inspect the rim.
If the rim is already tubeless ready, it should have suitable rim tape installed. Check that the tape is undamaged and completely seals the spoke holes.
If you are converting a compatible wheel, install the correct width of tubeless rim tape according to the rim manufacturer’s instructions.
The tape needs to create an airtight seal without interfering with the tyre bead.
Step 2: Install the tubeless valve
Push the tubeless valve through the valve hole in the rim.
Make sure the rubber base of the valve is correctly positioned and tighten the retaining nut by hand.
Don’t overtighten it. You want a good airtight seal, not a damaged valve or rim tape.
Step 3: Fit the first bead
Fit one side of your tubeless gravel tyre onto the rim.
Check the direction of rotation if the tyre has a directional tread.
(Key note - Always align the tyre logo with the valve. Our OCD will thank you forever)
Step 4: Fit the second bead
Install most of the second bead, leaving a small section open.
This is where you can add your sealant.
Step 5: Add sealant
Add the recommended amount of tubeless sealant for your tyre size.
As an example, Stan’s recommends around 60ml for a 700c x 40mm tyre, although you should always follow the sealant manufacturer’s recommendations for your specific tyre.
Stan’s Original Tubeless Sealant is a popular option and is specifically recommended by the manufacturer for road, gravel and mountain bike tyres.
Other well-known sealants include:
· Stan’s Original Tubeless Sealant
· Orange Seal Endurance
· Muc-Off No Puncture Hassle Tubeless Sealant
· Effetto Mariposa Vegetalex
The important thing is to choose a sealant designed for bicycle tubeless systems and follow the manufacturer’s instructions regarding compatibility and quantity.
Step 6: Finish fitting the tyre
Carefully work the remaining section of tyre bead onto the rim.
This can be the hardest part of the process, particularly with a tight tyre.
Avoid using excessive force or damaging the tyre bead or the wheel rim. Finding it too difficult, then pop the wheels to your local bike repairer shop.
Step 7: Inflate the tyre
Now you need to get the tyre bead to seat properly against the rim.
This is where a tubeless inflator or compressor can make life considerably easier. You could use a CO2 canister or a track pump might work too if you pump very fast.
You should hear a series of small pops as the bead moves into position.
Check the moulded line around the tyre close to the rim. It should sit evenly all the way around the wheel.
If one section is sitting lower than the rest, deflate the tyre, reposition the bead and try again.
Soapy water around the bead can help it slide into position.
Never exceed the tyre or rim manufacturer’s maximum pressure when attempting to seat a tyre.
Step 8: Distribute the sealant
Once inflated, rotate and shake the wheel so the sealant spreads around the inside of the tyre.
Turn the wheel horizontally and gently move it from side to side to help the sealant reach the tyre bead and any potential leakage points.
Leave the tyre inflated and check it regularly.
We recommend you jump on the bike and ride it for a minute or two as this will add weight to the sidewalls and make sure the tyres are seated well
It can take some time for the sealant to seal small leaks. Park Tool’s tubeless installation guide provides a detailed explanation of the installation process.
What happens if you puncture a tubeless tyre?
This is where tubeless really comes into its own.
If you ride over a sharp piece of gravel and the tyre develops a small puncture, the sealant should be forced towards the hole by the escaping air.
You may hear a hiss and see a small amount of sealant escaping.
Keep the wheel rotating and, if necessary, position the hole towards the bottom of the tyre. Often the sealant will seal the hole within seconds.
You may lose a little pressure, so carry a pump or CO₂ inflator and top the tyre back up.
But what happens when the sealant doesn’t seal the hole?
That’s when you need a tubeless repair plug.
How to repair a tubeless tyre on the trail
A tubeless repair kit should be part of every serious gravel cyclist’s riding kit.
A typical kit contains:
· Tyre plugs
· A plug insertion tool
· A reaming tool
· Small cutting tool
· Spare valve core
· Sometimes replacement plugs or patches
If you can see the object that caused the puncture, remove it carefully.
Then use the reaming tool if necessary to prepare the hole and insert a suitable tyre plug using the insertion tool.
Push the plug into the hole until only a small amount remains outside the tyre.
Inflate the tyre again and rotate the wheel.
The sealant should then work together with the plug to close the hole.
One of the most useful compact options is the Stan’s Dart Tool, while the Dynaplug range is another popular choice among gravel and mountain bike riders.
Stan’s also produces dedicated tubeless kits containing sealant, valves and rim tape for setting up tubeless wheels.
What if the tyre has a big cut?
This is where tubeless has its limits.
A large cut or damaged sidewall may simply be too big for sealant and a plug to repair.
This is why we recommend carrying:
1 x spare inner tube
1 x tubeless repair kit
1 x mini pump or CO₂ inflator
1 x tyre lever
If the tyre is badly damaged, remove the tubeless valve, install the inner tube and ride home.
You can also use a temporary tyre boot to reinforce a larger cut from the inside of the tyre. We recommend carrying some gorilla tape for larger holes or cuts. We have witnessed riders use a £5 note and a gel wrapper to seal the split. You can use anything available to help plug a large slit, but gorilla tape really creates a strong bond and will get you home.
It’s not elegant, but it can be the difference between riding home and waiting for a rescue.
How often should you check tubeless sealant?
Tubeless sealant isn’t something you install once and forget about.
The liquid gradually dries out inside the tyre and needs to be replenished.
How often you need to refresh it depends on the sealant, climate, tyre and how often you ride.
Stan’s, for example, says its Original formula can provide reliable sealing performance for approximately 2–6 months, although dry conditions can require more frequent checking.
If you ride regularly, it’s worth checking your sealant every couple of months. If you noticed sealant has sprayed on your bike, then you will have had a puncture on your ride and this is a good indicator to remember to top up the fluid.
You can remove the valve core and use a sealant injector to add more without removing the tyre.
Also regularly check your tyre pressures before riding. Tubeless systems can lose air gradually, particularly if the tyre or rim has a small leak.
We recommend placing the valve at either 5 or 7 o'clock rather than 6 o'clock. This way the sealant can enter the bottom of the tyre without flooding the valve and stopping sealant entering the tyre.
Are tubeless gravel tyres worth it?
For most gravel cyclists, yes.
If your riding involves rough tracks, long-distance gravel adventures, bikepacking or remote routes, the benefits of tubeless are difficult to ignore.
The ability to run sensible lower pressures, reduce pinch punctures and have sealant automatically repair many small punctures makes tubeless gravel tyres an excellent choice.
There is also something reassuring about riding a remote gravel road knowing that a small thorn or piece of sharp flint doesn’t necessarily mean stopping to remove a wheel and change an inner tube.
However, tubeless isn’t completely maintenance-free.
You need to check your sealant, maintain your tyre pressures, occasionally replace rim tape and be prepared for the occasional stubborn tyre that refuses to seat.
And you still need an emergency plan.
The golden rule of gravel cycling is simple: tubeless doesn’t mean puncture-proof.
Carry a repair kit, pump and spare tube and you’ll be prepared for the vast majority of problems you’re likely to encounter
Moving to tubeless is one of the best upgrades you can make to a gravel bike.
Once you’ve mastered the initial setup, cycling tubeless becomes relatively straightforward and the benefits are particularly noticeable when riding rough surfaces.
For gravel cyclists, the combination of lower pressures, increased traction, improved comfort and automatic puncture protection makes a good tubeless setup an excellent investment.
Just remember that the system only works properly when the tyre, rim, rim tape and valve are all compatible and correctly installed.
Get that part right, keep your sealant topped up and carry a basic repair kit—and you’ll be ready to explore further, ride rougher and worry less about punctures.
